(Blog)

How do you prepare a car for a ceramic coating?

You prepare a car for a ceramic coating by getting the paint properly clean and corrected first: a safe wash, decontamination and at least a single-stage machine polish. A coating locks in whatever is underneath it, so the prep is most of the job. This is how I handle preparing for a ceramic coating at the studio in Tattenhall, near Chester.

Why the prep matters more than the bottle

From a few feet away your paint might look fine. Get it out in the sun and you’ll see the swirls. A coating won’t hide them. It bonds to the paint and lasts years, so whatever’s in the paint when it goes on is still there years later.

That’s why every ceramic coating in Chester I do starts with the paint. I’ve been detailing since 2013, Ceramic Pro approved since 2016, and the prep is still the bit I won’t rush.

My prep, step by step

Same routine on every car before anything goes on:

  1. Safe wash. Done carefully, so I’m not putting marks in while I’m getting the dirt off.
  2. Decontamination. I take off what a normal wash leaves behind, like iron fallout and tar, so the paint is properly clean.
  3. Machine polish. At least a single-stage machine polish on every coating, so what gets locked in is worth keeping. If the paint has deeper swirls, I’ll tell you honestly whether more paint correction is worth it. Paint correction on its own is from £400.
Matrix Black ceramic coating bottle and applicator ready to use at Jay's Auto Detailing studio in Tattenhall

Optional extra: stone chip touch-in

If you want, I can fill stone chips before the coating goes on, with touch-up paint matched to your colour code. It’s not perfect. It does make a big difference, though. It’s an extra, price on application, and it isn’t part of the standard prep.

Curing the coating indoors

Once the paint is right, the coating goes on in my indoor studio and is cured under IR lamps. Being indoors keeps the weather off it while it sets.

It’s why a coating ideally takes 3 days. Most of that is prep and curing, and I won’t rush a job to squeeze another one in.

What a coating will and won't do

You get deeper gloss and water that beads and rolls off, and the car’s a lot easier to keep clean. It won’t stop stone chips or scratches. Better you hear that from me now than find out later. If you’re still deciding, here’s how a ceramic coating compares with wax.

Coatings last 3, 5 or 8 years, and Ceramic Pro Gold is a lifetime coating. Ceramic coating is from £500. If you’re weighing up the price, my guide to what a ceramic coating costs explains what affects it.

Looking after it afterwards

When you pick it up, I’ll show you how to wash it safely at home. Or if you’d rather leave it to me, Coated Car Maintenance is from £75, every 4 to 6 weeks and at least once every change of season, and a Six-Monthly Top-up is from £150.

Ceramic coating prep FAQs

Do I need paint correction before a ceramic coating?

Usually, yes: every coating I do includes at least a single-stage machine polish, because a coating locks in whatever is underneath. If the paint has deeper swirls, I’ll tell you whether more correction is worth it.

Should I wash or polish my car before bringing it in?

No, just bring it as it is. The wash, decontamination and machine polish are all part of the job at the studio.

How long does the prep take?

A ceramic coating ideally takes 3 days in total, and most of that is the prep and curing. For anything else, I’ll tell you how long once I’ve seen the car.

Will a coating hide swirls or scratches?

No, a coating locks in what’s underneath, so swirls and scratches stay visible under it. That’s why I correct the paint first.

Where is the work done?

At my indoor studio at Canal Side Business Park in Tattenhall, about 15 minutes’ drive from Chester city centre. All detailing and coatings are done there, and mobile valeting is available.

Book a free 30-minute assessment

Not sure what your paint needs? Bring it down to the studio and I’ll tell you straight what it needs and what it’ll cost.